Inca trail – Day 3
Our guide Darwin said that day three was his favorite day of the hike because of the beautiful views and Incan sites that we would pass. This was the longest day, we would hike 8-9 miles. He also said, “Day two is the hardest day, but day three maybe is harder day.” He was right.
That day we woke up around 4:30am, and we were to hike for 10 hours. We started with another steep climb, not quite as steep as the last day, but still very difficult. There were a lot of ups and downs all day, ending with a long, steep downhill of mostly stairs for thee hours often referred to as “Gringo Killer”. There were three really cool archeological Incan sites that we stopped at, and Darwin took time at each one to give us a short tour and explain the history.
This really was the most beautiful portion of the trail so far, with stone paths that wound along the edges if steep mountainsides, cool walks through cloud forest dotted with flowers and orchids, summits with 360 degree views and winding, moss covered staircases. This day really, really took its toll on us though, and we lagged far behind the others, one or two of us having a particularly difficult time. Near the end, on the long downhill portion, Darwin stuck with us, encouraging us on and making sure we didn’t get caught on a mountainside after dark. About an hour before camp, there was a fork in the trail. To the right was a shortcut directly to camp. To the left was a slightly longer route which went past some more archeological Incan ruins. Darwin urged us, that even though some of us felt like death, and it was getting late, that we MUST take the longer path past the ruins, that it was beautiful and we would not regret it, and that if we did not like it, he would carry us the rest if the was. So we obliged, and took the path to the left. After about 25 minutes we came to a steep portion of the mountainside that had been cleared away to create large Incan terraces, each about 10 feet high and 20 feet deep. We emerged into this area at the top terrace. It was just about dusk and the view across the valley was so beautiful it nearly brought me to tears. The last rays of sunlight we’re hitting the snow capped peak of Mt. Veronica in the distance, and the Urubumba river wound through the valley below.
It was getting dark fast, and we quickly hit the trail for the final 20 minutes to camp. Darwin led the way, and as we broke out our headlamps to see the ground in front of us a couple of our porters met us on the trail, having come up from camp to help us get there. It was completely dark by the time we arrived but we finally made it safe and sound. Dinner, as usual was great, and now that we were at a lower altitude it was much warmer and I slept like a rock.
