Boat ride up the Mekong River
Day 8
Slow Boat ride up the Mekong River
For a person to get upriver from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai, they basically have three choices. They can take a bus, which is a couple of nightmarish days driving through winding mountain roads, they can take the “slow boat”, which is a 100 foot long boat, not unlike a giant bus, that they also pack passengers in and also takes two days to complete the journey, or they can take the “fast boat”. Which is a small speedboat that fits maybe 6 passengers and makes the distance in one day, but it’s extremely loud, passengers wear helmets and it’s been known to have some fatalities (yea, no biggie). No e of these options looked very good to us, but we were ready and willing to take the slow boat as the only viable option.
As it ended up, we found an excellent final option. We found a local boat owner and bargained a private slow boat for the two day trip. Now, instead of 75 people on the boat, it would only be the four of us plus the driver and his wife and son, we would have lunch cooked for us each of the two days, and it would cost us $100 per person instead of $22 (the price started at $150). Given the alternative I think we made out pretty well. If you ever want to do this, and come across a man named Mr. Jai, you can trust him.
We were picked up by the boat on the river right across from our hotel at 8:am. Each day would be an 8 hour ride with an overnight stay in Pak Beng. Despite all the horror stories we’ve read about these boats on the Internet, the boat was actually really nice. The seats were airline seats and there were a half dozen tables, with room to lay down,and there was a bathroom in the rear. In back, beyond the bathroom was a roaring open engine thar pushed us along at about 20mph, and behind thar was the small living quarters for the family that lived on the boat.
The Mekong is exactly the type of river one might think of the they think of Laos. It’s the color of mud and is spotted with water buffalo, cattle and fishermen in long boats checking their nets. We passed the time by play cards, napping and watching the mountains, jungle and sand bars pass us by.
It was a about this time that the inevitable happened and Heather and I both came down with a case of travelers sickness. It really took all of the energy out of me, but I suppose if it were to happen anytime this would be the best time since all I have to do is lay around on a boat for two days.
We stopped at the tiny town of Pak Beng for the night, which we’ve also read horror stories about. It turned out okay though. The town is nothing more than one or two roads loner with guest houses, restaurants (all with mostly the same menu) and the occasional convenience store selling Pringles, crackers and Beer Lao. We just walked the street until we found a suitae room at the Mekong River Lodge. The rooms were new and clean and had a shared deck overlooking the river. Tho others wend across the street for Indian food, and I stayed in, comfortably close to the bathroom and my bottled water.
